A Breath of Paradise: My Journey Through San Blas, Nayarit

The morning began with birdsong and a cool breeze that seemed to tell me to slow down. I arrived at Narum, a magical restaurant tucked into the forest. I chose a table outdoors, surrounded by deep greens and absolute calm.

I ordered red chilaquiles with flank steak, chicken enmoladas with panela cheese, and another round of chilaquiles—this time topped with shrimp. Every dish tasted like it had been made by someone who truly loves to cook. I paired it all with their signature hot chocolate with marshmallows and a berry lemonade that felt almost unreal.

It was a generous, comforting breakfast—exactly what I needed before a day that would turn out unforgettable.

With a happy stomach and an even happier heart, I took the highway toward San Blas. My first stop was Matanchén Pier, an iconic boardwalk stretching into the ocean as if reaching for the horizon.

I walked its length, letting the rhythm of the waves guide my steps. The salty breeze, the creaking wood, the local vendors offering crafts and souvenirs… everything carried an authentic simplicity. I picked up a few things—bracelets, shell figurines—small details that now remind me of that moment.

Next up was La Tovara, a true natural treasure. I hopped onto a small boat and drifted along channels surrounded by mangroves, their branches almost closing off the sky.

I spotted sunbathing crocodiles, cinnamon-colored herons, turtles, and even heard talk of the famous jején—the tiny insect that’s part of local folklore. Nothing overshadowed the beauty of the place, though. The still water, the green reflections, the constant birdsong… it felt like stepping into another world.

It’s one of Mexico’s most biodiverse spots, and it’s easy to understand why when you’re there, feeling like part of the ecosystem.

Day two started at La Chona, in the municipal center of San Blas. They welcomed me like royalty with a spread that included: a special burrito stuffed with shrimp, octopus, flank steak, and veggies; a club sandwich; seared tuna medallion with pasta and vegetables; clam pasta; and some outrageous hot cakes with sunny-side-up eggs.

They even have a pool, so you can hang out, relax, and cool off after eating.

After breakfast, I headed into the historic heart of San Blas:

• La Contaduría, the old fort with panoramic views
• La Iglesia Marinera, a centuries-old seafarers’ church

A particularly special stop was meeting Juan Bananas, the legendary local baker. He showed me how he makes his famous banana bread, shared his story, and talked about his commitment to the environment. He even has a tiny banana-bread museum and gives talks to local youth about protecting the planet.

I walked through the old San Blas Customs House, once the maritime border of New Spain and now reborn as a cultural space. Built around 1768 as the first Pacific customs office of the Viceroyalty, it played a key strategic role in the port’s history.

Today, its architecture blends original adobe with a contemporary intervention by Colectivo C733, creating a bridge between past and present. It preserves its lower level and original corridor—now an exhibition hall—and includes workshops, handcrafted clay walls, and walkways leading to rooftop viewpoints. This restoration earned the 2023 Íconos del Diseño award for its value as a community and cultural landmark.